Prolix Total Gun Care Solvent 64 oz. Refill

My range instructor's use this and recommend it....works well

love this stuff! ! ! It's a good all around cleaner that's safe on just about any surface and finish on a gun. Has a nice smell to it as well.

Been using for 14 years, recently tried several other CLP products to test against and came right back to this one. I’ll explain why in just a bit.Prolix has the viscosity of water and is a dry film lube that smells slightly of citrus but also a bit like Windex (although less than 1/3 as strong) so it isn’t off-putting at all for indoor use. It is non-toxic and biodegradable. Let’s be clear: non-toxic means “less toxic than most others”. If you leave it on your hands all day and eat finger foods for years on end I doubt the results will be favorable. But this applies to anything with which you’d clean/protect a firearm. However, having viewed the MSDS and compared it to others I will say that I regard this as non-toxic as far as that goes. No known carcinogens, no reproductive harm, about as harmless as Ballistol.As far as corrosion protection, I’ve done several tests and my results mimicked those done by DIY_Guy where he compared 46 different products. If you run a search online it isn’t hard to find. Most CLP products don’t last 24 hrs in the rain or with hand sweat, but honestly they shouldn’t be expected to. This includes all the popular ones such as BreakFree, Ballistol, Hoppes, etc. Strong corrosion protection usually comes with the cost of harmful vapors and strong chemicals.So here’s why I love the product: from the outset it has never hurt any wood or synthetic finish on any gun I own. Second, I regard a CLP as doing what washing your hands does: a light cleaning and healthy restoration/protection of your skin. Paint or grease or automotive gunk on your hands? Use Fast Orange lol. What I mean is this: for fouling that’s a result of heat and pressure, such as the bore or gas piston in a shotgun, use a solvent. No CLP can compare. For lubricating parts that slide across one another, use a very thick oil or grease bc again no CLP can compare. A CLP product is best used as that step in-between. After you clean but before you place a few drops of lube/grease, you need a product that acts as a general wash. This (and any CLP) cleans well enough for a shotgun receiver, the bottom half of a semi-auto pistol, basically the other 90% of the firearm that isn’t strongly fouled, and restores a layer of protection to the metal.This is where Prolix shines. It’s better in that it doesn’t slime your hands or the gun, won’t gunk up trigger mechanisms or firing pin channels and won’t be running/dripping out of your gun once you put it up bc it’s a dry film. No slime, no mess, no fuss. I won’t say it’s a one-stop-shop (no gun product is), but it’s a much less messy and troublesome way to wash down or wipe down your gun. I use more of this than any other gun care product and usually buy the 1/2-gallon.If you’re the one-product type though (to each his own), I’d recommend Ballistol, Slip2000 or BreakFree CLP. In that instance you need a wet lube product, as one of those will do better on the bore cleaning as well as the lubrication than Prolix. In either case, no CLP on the market will clean or lubricate as well as a product dedicated for the purpose. I can say with confidence that once you’ve experienced the no-tox and no mess version of a CLP, you won’t go back.

There is no better gun cleaning product that also helps preserve gun metal and wood surfaces. I've been using Prolix for 15 years, and I don't plan to change!