Cyclamatic CX3 Pro Power Plus Alloy Frame eBike Black/Blue

Just got my CX3 today. They said it would be delivered on Tuesday and it came on Saturday in 2 days.Two problems arose, while a third arose after one week:1. Pedals. YOU have to put these on, so remember the pedals are NOT interchangeable.Look at the end of the bolt, there will be an "R" on one and an "L" on the other.The "R" pedal ONLY goes on the right side, and the "L" only on the left side. Right and Left pedals are threaded in opposite directions, so the top of the pedal on both "R" and "L" turns to the front of the bike. It is Righty-tighty on the Right side, just like a normal screw; But Lefty-tighty on the Left side pedal.2nd. Problem.No instructions for the LCD screen came with the bike.I've been playing with it, and found some things out.1. Hold down the "+" to turn the backlight on and off.2. Pressing the Power button shifts through the screens. At the Bottom it will say "Trip" and give you the trip distance you cover. You can erase this by holding the '+' and '-' simultaneously.Then "ODO" ("odometer" it gives you the total miles on the bike, you can't erase this.Then it says TIME and gives you a stopwatch counting seconds passed.Then you get "P" and "O" I don't know what this means.3. When you get into the Trip screen, as you push the Power button, on the top it will change from "AVE" to "MAX", giving you your average speed during the trip, and the maximum speed during the trip.4. When you turn the computer on, the screen lights an all the functions are seen, hit the power button twice quickly, and you can get into the set-up mode. It will say Speed above and 57 with kph. Use the "+" to change this to mph. Then hold the power button down shutting the computer of. This is the way I found to set the mph. It kept change back to kph if I didn't get out.If you Go back in to the sub menu at start-up again, and cycle through using the power button by pushing once quickly you will get several menus. The first sub-menu lets you change the number from 1-5, I don't know what it does.The next sub-menu allows you to set it from 1-9. I'm sure this is a power rating, as at a 5 setting, the bike accelerated me to 9 mph when the bike's main screen power setting was set to '1'. When I upped the 5 to 9, the bike accelerated me up to 10 mph.The next sub-menu lets you input 4 numbers form "0000" from "9999". I have no idea what it is for.The next sub-men allows you to set a number at 12, 35, 46. When I set this at the highest number, on the main screen there is an image of a battery, it show you how much power is in the battery. On the highest setting this flashes and shows nothing. When I reset the number to the second highest number '36', it stopped flashing and give data normally. I don't know what is going on with it or why.Pedal Assist.P - 0 (no assist)- and 1-9 power settingsP. No throttle/ pedal assist only...well not quite.From any power setting 0 - 9, if you continuously hold down the "-" button, the computer goes into "P" mode, so long as you hold down the "-" button, the bike will move you forward without you pedaling at 3.8 mph.0. Zero setting means you get no assist from the motor but the computers data functions are activated for your use.1 - 9. These are the Pedal Assist Power settings. You get the greatest assist with 9, the least with 1. You can change this setting at any time, you don't have to stop the bike to change them you can do it on the move.The following speeds I got with the bike's gearing set to the 3rd rail and the 7th sprocket. That is the FASTEST setting.On a normal bike I could NEVER get up a hill on this setting, I'd be on the 1st rail and 1st or 2nd sprocket like any normal human being.I took all the test hills on the 21st gear except the steep hills at the mountain biking trails I tested the bike at. For those I was in the 1st gear.Accelerating from a stop:,On 1 the bike will accelerate you to (7-8 mph).On 2 you get to 9-10 mph.On 3 you get 11-12mph.On 4 you get 13-14mph.On 5 the bike will accelerate you to 15mph.On 6 you get 16mph.On 7 you get 17mphOn 8 you get 17mph, but faster than 7.On 9 you get 17 mph, but faster than 8.The hill speeds were a bit slower than the top speed, as you would expect. I made it up the hills in the 21st gear (impossible withou the motor assist), and was not tired nor sweaty.The pedal assist is most felt when starting from a stop and when going up inclines.When the speed drops 3-4 mph below the top speed for the power setting you are on, you get a bike speed boost back up to the top speed you've set on the main screen. However there is one bug in the computer. Every now and then as the speed drops, while I' am constantly pedaling, I don't get a speed boost. Once it fell to 9 mph when I should have gotten a boost at 13.9 mph. When this happens stop pedaling for a second then start peddling again. It is like the computer fell asleep, so by stopping your pedaling and then restarting, the computer wakes up and gives you your boost.As I was pedaling on level ground I went up through the numbers from 1 to 9. On 1, 2, 3, and 4, I didn't feel much of any acceleration since I was already travelling faster than the speed you get at those numbers. When I got to 5, the bike gave me some speed. Same with 6, 7, 8, and 9, I got a noticeable boost for all of them, meaning I was maintaining those speeds with the assist of the motor, even though it didn't always seem I was getting any boost at all.The boost is most noticeable when going up-hill. You are in the highest gearing and not sweating nor standing up, and yet you are moving along nicely. You can defiantly feel the motor pushing you up the hill. And since the bike never makes it to the top speed, the motor never cuts out as it does when it gets to the top speed.I took the bike to the Mountain bike /hiking trails on Wednesday after work. The hills that separate downtown from the valley are not mountains as they are not tall enough, but they aren't that far off.At the main street below the hill starting up to the Park, I had already 10.6 miles on the odometer and was showing 4 of the 5 hash marks on the battery. I rode the bike all the way up the mini-mountain to the park then to the highest point in the park. Including going up about a 50 degree incline hill. At the top I looked a the power and it said one hash-mark of power left. That was a constant 5-6 mile up hill ride to the park entrance about 50- 70 yards to the top.I was impressed, I wasn't hot, I wasn't sweating, and I wasn't tired. I put the bike's gearing down on the First gear going up the 50 degree incline in the park, but I was on the 3rd rail and at least the 5th sprocket all the way up to the park entrance.Tips on Accelerating:Even on '1' poer setting you get a nice acceleration, on '9' it really revs you to advertised speed of 15 miles per hour pretty fast.When starting from a stop, this system is a pedal assist, so you have to get to a certain speed of rotation before the motor kicks in, so ALWAYS reduce your gear as you come to the stop, so you can get up to a good rotation quickly from the stop and get the motor working. You will REALLY love the acceleration, it almost feels like a motor-bike, it is that good.Point of caution when coming to an intersection with a line of cars stopped for a red light.It would be a good idea to reduce the pedal assist number to 1 here. You will probably be coasting as you pass the cars, especially if you are being squeezed between a park car and the traffic. Once you start pedaling again you are going to get a boost, and you don't want to boost yourself into the intersection traffic, or into a car as they probably won't know you are there.Be especially careful with the boost around cars and intersections. This could get you hurt if not careful. Keep it on 1 or 2 or 3, not the mid or high numbers when cars are close by. However, when you can start from a stop on 9, do it, god the acceleration is so cool. It really shoots you across the street.Second point of caution,When accelerating, keep you fingers on the brakes when you are boosting near intersections around cars or crossing the traffic.On arrival the Brakes did not need any adjusting, they worked great, putting the wheel on and inserting the quick release was easy and quick. So to the seat installation.Distance.Over the last two days I've been riding the bike on one battery charge to see what distance I am getting. With the assist set to 9, and the bike on the 3rd rail and usually on 4, 5, 6, or the 7th sprocket, I am very happy to say I stopped the test at 70 miles!!!The battery's test button gave me two of four LED lights lit meaning I have between 25% and 50% of power left in the battery. The computer said I had 3 of 5 hash marks left. This is more than twice the advertised distance so what is going on?I'm a cyclist. I have powerful cyclist's leg muscles built for pedaling. Because my legs are more powerful than average person, It is easier for me to keep the bike at or above the maximum speed the computer is set for. Thus, the bike doesn't work as hard when I ride it as it would for a normal person who would be pedaling slower and with less force. Thus, for a normal person the motor will have to do a lot more work than it does for me and so use more of the battery's power and get less mileage.Since i had at least 25% of the battery remaining, I estimate that if I drove the battery to exhaustion I would have been around 100 miles or so. Pretty good range.Now the bad.I've ridden a racing bike most of my life and average about 25- 35 mph on the flats. To get over the limit of 15-16 mph motor limit, you can feel the motor fighting against you. It is not easy to pedal like my racer. You are turning an electric motor in the back wheel and you can hear it hum when you pedal. I think I read that this bike has regenerative capabilities when you pedal without the motor operating. Meaning it recharges the battery. But I'm not sure if I read that for this bike or another bike when I was shopping around.This bike has big-fat tires, so they are not designed for speed like the tiny tires on my racer. If you are used to a racing bike this bike will seem slow to you accept when going up hills, then you will love it. It is so easy to go up a hill you sit and pedal and just go up without strain nor sweating.I'm giving the Cyclamatic CX3 a 4 star ratting for there being no instruction for the LCD Screen, but the bike deserves a 5 star rating.The seller is contacting the bike manufacture about the computer manual. They didn't know how to change the mileage nor turn on the back-light, they said you couldn't.

I'm an e-bike aficianado, I had built about 5 from kits when I thought I would give this thing a taste, it sells for a good price. It is well engineered to be a e-bike from the start which is awesome, and the engineering appears robust. Honestly, I'm not sure what people are saying about this "power" stuff. My main ebike is 1500w and to me that is the sweet spot. More powerful than that is scary, less powerful is annoying. At 1500w, full throttle puts you exactly where you want to be.As for the power train, the power at 250w is paltry. A human, if they try hard, can put out more than 250w, so think of it as 3/4 of a human helping you pedal. I would rather have 6 humans! (1500w). So the acceleration is helpful, not great, but helpful, but it is governed at about 15mph which is WAY too slow. You play this game with the bicycle where if you pedal a little faster you lose all power (going too fast), so you have an impetus to pedal slower to get that motor assist. On my other bikes I use a straight throttle + pedaling as I please, and to me that formula is a little simpler and safer since I have independent control of both the pedal and the motor system, they aren't tied together. I think if this bike ran at 500 or 1000W and had a throttle, now THAT would be an excellent bike.More minor things: the buttons on the "aggressiveness" control pad popped off within 24 hours of using the bike, it still works fine, but that was not a good start. And the seat, the seat is harder than diamonds, that is the firmest seat. I replaced it with a wide spring loaded seat first thing, it's much nicer. I have a carbon fiber seat for another bike, and that carbon fiber seat feels softer than this seat.If you have some mechanical (and electrical) aptitude I would strongly recommend just using a kit, if you don't, then this is a solid bike for you at a reasonable price.

I've been feeling my age (79) the last few years and having increasing difficulty with the steep hills around my central MA home. This bike provides just the little boost I need. There are 9 levels of assistance, but I only routinely use the first three, riding in level one, downshifting for hills (staying at level 1) only going to 2 or 3 for the steepest hills. You can stay in high gear and climb by increasing the assistance level, but the object of riding (for me) is exercise, and the lower the level, the less drain on the battery. I have about 200 miles on the bike so far, and have gone over 40 miles without charging with 2 bars left on the display. Two minor negatives: (1) The highest gear is quite low compared to my previous bikes. I would like a higher ratio for more speed on flat surfaces. (2) After about 70 -80 miles, I was bothered by a clicking noise on each wheel rotation, a not uncommon problem, solved by a careful drop of oil where the spokes cross and touch, and where each spoke meets the wheel and hub. A big positive: The bike now comes with a full function cycle computer, not just a battery indicator. Unfortunately there are no instructions for the computer. Here's what I've learned: Press & hold the center button 3 sec. to turn the computer (& the bike) on. Press twice to enter setup mode, where you can change Kph to Mph. Press + and - together to reset all trip info. Press & hold + to turn on the backlight.